So finally I have ordered this one. You’ll need to match the power amps used with the speakers in that case. With some math, we would find out that our little example amplifier puts out 14.14 volts when it reaches 50W into a 4 ohm speaker. Can I use the speaker wire from the head unit or from the wiring harness of the vehicle and wire it to the high end of the new amp for the doors and dash…. – For best results you’ll want to use a real-time analyzer (RTA) & a pink noise test track to find the peaks and dips in the sound response once you’ve got it all working so you can adjust the EQ on the DSP. If that is the case, I’m thinking I would be better off putting them on that well known auction site and letting someone else put them to good use! :( I’ll reply in case you haven’t found an answer to your question yet. Copyright © 2017-2020 SoundCertified.com. Otherwise I will just throw the prime back in. Hello Jeff. I have two 6ohm speakers (wharfedale 9.1). I have two Bose model 161 speakers. So somewhere in the wall R, B, G & W changed to two pair of R, B.) Other than that, I think you might be better off using better 2-way speakers instead of your current ones. I have 2 Rockford Punch subs in a band pass box. Hi Marty. Hello Prebodha. Hi, I’ll need more information to help you as you don’t mention the particular product type & brand so I can find out more. That subwoofer isn’t really a good match for your amp in this case, since the amp isn’t 2 ohm capable. If you change them, the crososver’s behavior will change. Example of wiring speakers with a tri-mode capable amplifier. Crossovers are designed to work with a fixed speaker load so changing that affects the crossover frequency and therefore the sound. Any advice appreciated thanks in advance. The amp is 2 ohm stable in stereo 200w/ch. My main goal is basicly to get the most out of the speakers, and I am pretty pleased with the bridge mode between the c268 and c368. If your receiver or amplifier can handle 3 ohms per channel load (most home stereos cannot) then you can wire them in parallel. I also tried R +, B – in the left speaker and W +, G – in the right speaker (even though I didn’t think that it would make any difference. Do you join the positive and negative together and plug them into the receiver? Your advice would be highly appreciated. It’s important that you pay attention and don’t exceed the minimum speaker impedance rating. You need to match them correctly for whatever Ohms rating your amp has. Model number is CS65’s on the kickers. And the capacitor to be used in series (to filter 12KHz and above)? (You can connect single-cone and some other speakers in series without a problem, but not in this case). You can find the contact info on my Contact page here. From what i’ve read i should be wiring these in series as parallel will make it 3ohm (too little?). So, I used a multimeter to test the resistance of various pairs of the pre-wire with speakers attached to the ends outside (the ends coming out of the wall were clearly red and black for both speakers. When wired as an 8 ohm setup (series) it can’t develop the same power as a 4 ohm, so that’s not a good choice. And would I want the subs in stereo? Oh one more crazy thing , I was given old receivers and took audio in from a source on rec,1 and convert headphone jack out to rca in on receiver 2 I don’t know if that was healthy to do , it seems the two volume dials made more output ( does that make sense?). amp for front speakers – Rear RCA outputs to the 4 ch. Not all amps can deliver that much – it depends on their limitations and how they’re designed. I understand part of the problem but I’m not 100% clear on everything you’re dealing with. In that case, bridging is easy to do as long as you observe speaker impedance (Ohm rating) warnings from the manufacturer. – It sounds like you would like to bi-amp the channels, which allows time delay adjustment to be used between the different speakers. If both speakers share the same positive (+) wire connection, they’re in parallel. The original system had three different speaker components per side for hi mid and low I’m assuming, with some capacitors etc wired in for crossover (again assuming).

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